When to plant vegetables: a schedule by USDA zone

Last updated 2026-05-187 min read

Timing matters more than soil, more than fertilizer, more than which variety you buy. Plant lettuce in July and you get bolted, bitter stalks. Plant tomatoes in March and frost kills them overnight. This guide gives you the planting windows that actually work, organized by USDA zone, with separate schedules for cool-season and warm-season crops and the indoor seed-starting dates that get you a head start without legging up your seedlings.

The two rules that drive everything

Vegetable timing comes down to two dates:

  1. Last spring frost date. The average date of the last 32°F night in spring. Look it up by zip code from the National Weather Service or NOAA — it varies by microclimate even within the same town.
  2. First fall frost date. The average date of the first 32°F night in fall. The window between these two dates is your growing season — the only time warm-season crops survive outdoors.

Cool-season crops (lettuce, peas, broccoli, kale, spinach, radishes, carrots) actually prefer cool weather. Plant them 4–6 weeks before the last frost. Warm-season crops (tomatoes, peppers, squash, cucumbers, beans, corn) need warm soil. Plant them 1–2 weeks after the last frost, when soil temperature is at least 60°F.

Cool-season vs warm-season crops

Knowing which is which prevents most planting disasters. Keep this list pinned to the fridge:

Indoor seed-starting timing

Some crops need a head start indoors because the outdoor growing season is too short or because the seeds need warmth to germinate. Count backward from your last frost date:

Seedlings need a south-facing window or a shop light hung two inches above the leaves and raised as they grow. A windowsill alone almost always legs them up.

Zone-by-zone monthly schedule

Zones 3–4 (last frost mid-May to early June)

Short, intense season. Everything is compressed.

Zones 5–6 (last frost mid-April to mid-May)

Zones 7–8 (last frost late March to mid-April)

Zones 9–10 (last frost February to early March, or none)

Two distinct seasons: a "cool" winter season (October–April) for cool-weather crops, and a "summer" season for heat-lovers — though many cool-season crops simply do not grow in midsummer here.

Succession planting

Succession planting means staggering sowings of the same crop every 2–3 weeks so harvests spread across the season instead of arriving all at once. It is the single most useful habit for a small vegetable garden:

Plan your beds and successions visually with our garden planner tool, and check spacing with the plant spacing calculator.

Soil temperature: the number gardeners forget to check

Air temperature gets all the attention, but soil temperature is what germinating seeds and transplanted roots actually feel. A $10 soil thermometer pushed four inches into the bed in the morning tells you what no calendar can:

Raised beds run 5–10°F warmer than ground beds in spring, which buys an extra week or two of early planting in cold zones.

Frost protection and season extension

Three cheap tricks add weeks at both ends of the season:

Common timing mistakes

Not sure what to grow first? The AI plant advisor suggests vegetables matched to your zone, sun, and experience level.

Plan your beds visually

Sketch beds, rotate crops, and track successions with our free planner — no signup needed.

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Frequently asked questions

What can I plant in my vegetable garden in early spring?

As soon as soil works: peas, lettuce, spinach, kale, radishes, carrots, beets, onion sets. Wait for soil to warm to 60°F for beans; 70°F for tomatoes, peppers, squash, and most other warm-season crops.

When should I start seeds indoors?

Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant: 6-8 weeks before last frost. Brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, kale): 4-6 weeks before last frost. Squash, cucumber, beans: 2-3 weeks before last frost OR direct-sow at planting time. Lettuce and other leafy crops: direct-sow always — they hate transplant.

How do I plan succession plantings?

Replant fast-maturing crops every 2-3 weeks until 70 days before first frost. Lettuce, radishes, peas, beans all benefit. Single big plantings yield one massive harvest then nothing; succession yields steady weekly harvests through the season.

Can I plant a fall vegetable garden?

Yes, and often more productive than spring. Plant cool-season crops (kale, broccoli, cabbage, lettuce, spinach, radish) 10-12 weeks before first frost. Fall crops sweeten after light frost — most fall vegetables actually taste better than spring versions.

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